Turpan – Urumqi & Meeting M

We’re 2 weeks into October. Oh my god 2020 is going too fast! I barely looked back these days. Every day comes in as a separate experience from the past. I’m still trying to continue my blog posts somehow in this mess…gonna have to pick up from where I left it 2 months ago 😂 this was the start of some very unexpected things began to happen 👀

On the last morning in Turpan we planned to go to the Museum for the time left in between the journey to the train station. The Turpan Museum had lockers for our bagpacks and stuff. As usual there were security checks and you can only bring your passport and valuables inside. It was a fun and educational hour spent. We made it just in time for Urumqi Train Station and approached the counters for boarding passes.

Everything went smoothly until the security area. We were queueing for the metal detectors when the female officer signaled to take off my headscarf which never happened throughout the first leg of the trip so I was shocked. I tried to ask her to allow a personal check with a female officer. After some frantic hand gesture she understood and led me to their desks and conduct the security check there instead. It wasn’t fully obscured view but it was reasonable enough for us. After that, another security check awaits. We had like 8 minutes to get through downstairs and embark! At this checkpoint they recheck every content of our hand carry bags (luckily bagpacks were excluded since it passed imaging process) but it still took some time to lay everything out and then put it back again. Both of us were getting anxious and irritated. We can’t miss the train!!

When we finally embarked it was like we were the last ones and it shot up to speed a minute later. Phew.

Here the train conductors looked Russian?Kazakh? Idk I meant they looked unlike how Chinese people would look like. I was so ignorant 😅 I gotta remind myself China stretches from the east to west. From being in Turpan the signages are available in both Uyghur and Mandarin. We started seeing more locals who looked like the above, if they were in traditional clothing and you can tell they’re the Uyghur minority of China after some asking around. In Xi’an Hui people is common(?) and they have more typical Chinese features compared to Uyghurs. So I have a picture of what to expect in Urumqi as the capital of the Xinjiang Autonomous Region. I didn’t know anything much, yet.

Urumqi lunch hour traffic was rather bad. Other than that everything around looks like any other major city. Lots of people with a mix of ethnicities but still NO foreigners. We were getting used to it but hey it’d be nice to meet other travelers. My friend and I had a random video of us walking and faced the camera to the crowd around us. Just to record how unrelenting stares we get wherever we went 😅 we were the ONLY headscarf wearing people out here. For a region with a known sizeable Muslim people we did wondered why was that? It could be completely cultural. Apart from old ladies with a tied scarf no other headscarf can be found. We found a few shops selling headscarves though. It was nice stuff I bought some of the best headscarf that I still wear now.

Meeting M and her mother

Around 4pm we looked for a place to eat. We found a restaurant with a proper ‘Muslim Food’ sign outside and stepped inside, ordered our food and sat down in the middle of the room. Again, many eyes on us , if not most. A full table of Kim Kardashian looking (they’re gorgeous) and dressed young women sat 3 tables apart looked directly at us and at this point we were close to approach them lol do you have anything to say or….? loool at no point it clicked into my mind why the obvious observation by practically everyone. I was about to go to offensive mode when I notice a young woman (not Kim K table) actually sat up and came to our table. Hmmm.

Woman: Hello^^ I saw you here I thought to come and say hi. Is it okay if I sit at your table?

Me: ??? Oh it’s okay <smiles> (I wonder about her really good English and accent. No offence but it was only the second time we talked with someone who can)

Woman: Thank you^^ I’m an English teacher <gave out her hand to me>

Me: (still ????) <accept the handshake> Oh okay I can guess from your command of English! <awkward pause>

Woman: <smiling all the way through> Sorry if you feel awkward!! I heard you guys talking and your headscarf. I wanna ask if you’re Malaysian? Ive been to Malaysia last year. Beautiful country!

Me: (((Ooooh okayy)))

So that was how it went at the beginning. I’m prepared for a nice light conversation with this stranger about our travels, I thought to myself as she led the other woman who sat with her to our table. She introduced the older woman, her mother to us. The mother was a lot more reserved and just nodded with a little smile. They stayed through the entire meal and exchanged stories of their trip to my country and us in China so far.

Let’s called her as initials M. M revealed she’s Muslim as well, from Hui ethnicity. I was happy to know. Until M started telling me how they can’t wear headscarf or any head cover here, and stressed that she’d totally wear it if she could. But she can’t. I remembered feeling huh I didn’t know that you can’t.

Me: As if in, banned?

M leaned forward and shushed-signaled me.

M: You can’t talk about this in public. You need to speak slowly. (to which I don’t know what to say) Did you noticed people are looking at you? Like the girls from the other table. (we turned abruptly to them to find those eyes hurriedly looking away from us lol)

I know it was weird but I didn’t know it was like, banned. Illegal.

I’m starting to freak out if we were being completely obvious with an illegal act! I asked her about the security checks, she said it’s how it is only in the recent year. I was like I didn’t know! That’s crazy.

M: Now you know. I’m telling you this because it’s my experience as a local as well. (a sigh) If you looked at me from the outside would you even know I’m Muslim, like you? I wear all this and looked like everyone else here. We all looked the same. They didn’t let us wear it to make us all looked the same.

Me: Do people who wore it get into trouble?

M: Yes, you can even go to jail for it. That’s why no one dared to. They only allow older ladies to wear it, like my mom (who had a tied headscarf).

Her mother avoided eye contact but looked approving of what M said. Her mother lightened up a bit when we realized we were of the same age and I commented on how younger M looked compared to us. I think we were being calm enough after the meal ended and processing the whole conversation. I didn’t try to fight the stares anymore though. We were walking around with something illegal above our heads for the last few hours.

…continue writing later it’s 12.24am where Im at 😅..

Dunhuang – Turpan #6

So how’s the world doing? I thought of continuing my long lost China posts after 3 months 😂

Basically from last #5 post we were in a train from Liuyuan to Turpan, the first city in Xinjiang in the second half of the trip. Turpan/Tulufan means ‘the lowest place’ in Uyghur and ‘fertile place’ in Turkish. Yep, we were nearer to the capital of Xinjiang Autonomous Region’s capital, Urumqi. Just the language used in signages, the people and culture were already noticeably different.

This route (Dunhuang – Turpan) has a few different stations that catered to it, and if you took the wrong one it’ll definitely spoil your plan by arriving at the edge of the city in the dark and cold with no means of transport to wherever your hotel were. After some researching the lonely Liuyuan station were the one with the most connections to other Chinese cities. There are 2 train stations in Turpan, the difference between them is the distance from downtown and the type of trains it served. We took the Z train, a type of fast train (that we could afford) and it will arrive in Turpan North Railway Station. This was closer to city centre and was so huge and well lit.

There was a sandstorm at the time. It was so cold and we were anxious to step out into the night but we pushed on to catch a cab. You can see the locals were rather unfazed. As usual..just some humans from the tropics stuff 😆

When we arrived to the city it was lit with the morning sun. We had nothing since last night yet plus the cold were eating away our energy. We tried to show the map to the hotel and the driver helped looking for a while but I think he was tired too and he dropped us in a location he said should be close to the hotel. We stepped out and walked around the area with no real clue of where we are. Some police forces/guards tried to help these obvious lost tourists lol he led us to a place and said this must be the place. We looked around the dilapidated building..seriously man Im hungry and cold I can’t think clearly. There’s no way that was it! We said thanks and went on to the side of a main road and tried to catch another cab.

Steampunk looking building with an adjacent bread shop

This whole process took about 40mins~. Around the main road there was many attraction signs and estimated time by car and walking. We used that to find the hotel but failed. We decided to approach polices stationed near us. They were so helpful they even offered WiFi inside the building. It’s a nice shelter against the storm that was finally dying down. Still, we couldnt find it! It was around 8am now and the streets were buzzing with activities-kids walking to school, small shops opened. After a long walk by the street a cab finally stopped and allowed us in. Prior, a lot of cabs refused us because of language barrier. This driver was able to converse in English and were the one to bring us to the right spot. We realized we have been here before but missed the sign! This whole situation would be different if a) we speak Mandarin b) get online to access text to speech app

Dap Youth Hostel signage. So small!

Inside the traditional, ambiguous building, a rather lively ambiance awaits. We felt our morning given a chance to restart. A lovely lady welcomed us to our room. It was a little bit uncomfortable as it was a room inside another room. Everytime I’m entering the first room I had to announce myself because it was a bunk room, coincidentally there was a couple at the time. It was awkward but that’s was how it went. Dap Youth Hostel converted an actual residential to a lodging. I get to sleep on cement based bed 😁

The lovely courtyard

The next thing to do of course is to look for breakfast. We walked around, hungry and cold for another 20mins and was stopped by a local lady on a bike. She immediately guessed where we were from and offered to lead us to a nice breakfast place. I can’t say it was just a pleasant surprise, she was literally a savior. The place was crowded with the morning traffic and smelled delicious.

Pulled noodles, steamed buns/bao, fried bread? (not sure of the name)

It tastes soo good! The lady gave us her number in case we’d need her help again and we bid our goodbyes. We’re so grateful for the chance encounter. At around 11am we booked a one for all pass for 152CNY. We didn’t include Bezeklik Caves as we have seen Mogao Grottoes (from what I read it’s good enough to catch either one if you don’t have much time).

1. Gaochang Ancient City

You’d have to enter through the museum and chart the shuttle van to the actual site. There will be security checks at each entrances where you will need to remove your outerwear and the insides of your bag. Again, a thunderstorm swept us so hard that we had second thought whether we’d continue. But it was an experience I’ll never forget. Once it dies down I get to take some pictures without stinging my eyes.

2. Jiaohe Ancient City

We only met a few other travelers at the time. It was my first experience in a huge open archeological site like this. Prepare to spend 2 hours~ to soak in the environment and imagine how it’d look like in its heyday 😁 these 2 sites are a testament of how old this region was inhabited and flourished.

3. Karez Wells

So I just knew from this trip that Karez Well is considered a wonder of China together with The Great Wall but seems like it’s not well known as its counterparts. It was an irrigation system that literally ushered the region to another level; fertile crops that led to a whole civilization and became the land of grapes and raisins. Turpan contains the second lowest depression in the world at 154m below sea level. They built a museum on top of the actual wells that you can go down and look at it yourself. At the end of the tour you’ll pass a gift shop. If it feels touristy to you take comfort in the beautiful surroundings outside the museum.

We asked our driver where and what to eat in here. We ended up ordering a heavy main dish thinking we could share it with our driver. Obviously when the dish was served we were surprised! The cook served it himself and told us it took a long time to make because he had a whole chicken in there 😅😂 it was so delicious. Our driver ate a small portion. I had leftovers for dinner and next morning’s breakfast! We learned that you can’t simply order stuff without knowing its portion, like we did in Dunhuang, the waitress had an English speaking staff clarified the size. 1 chicken? Half/quarter? Apparently you can actually specify for this particular dish. Don’t make this mistake if there’s just the two of you to eat everything >.<

Named ‘Big Chicken Dish’ rather straightforward 😁

4. Flaming Mountains

On to the next! The Flaming Mountain got its name from being the hottest place in China. Here you’ve a choice to see it from the road (free) or pay for the museum and park. Inside, there are camel rides, photo spots and go karts.

Local uncles noticed me taking photo of them haha

We returned to Turpan city near dusk and reached the closed gates of the Emin Minaret. Regrettably we had to end our trip for the day. I managed to take a photo from a far though.

We stayed in for dinner with leftover from our big chicken dish and some flatbreads from a local stall nearby. There was a guy, a fellow Malaysian who stayed in the hostel as well and we had a good chat that night. He was heading east from Urumqi, where he said it was lightly snowing. I freaked a bit since we didn’t dress for snowing temperature…and I’m pretty much intimidated by cold weather by now 😂 I can’t wait to see Urumqi, and will miss Turpan. I made a pact with my friend that we MUST come again to see the city in blooms of grapevines in July – September next time.

Had to say goodbye to this cutie